One of our favorite places in the world, and our wedding locale, is Carmel-by-the-Sea, a quaint seaside town south of Monterey. It’s a beautiful and fun place to spend a long weekend, which is just what Kelly and I did to celebrate Loïc’s 1st birthday. Bandit, of course, came as the exclusive guest.
Carmel-by-the-Sea is not to be confused with Carmel or Carmel Valley. Carmel-by-the-Sea refers to the small seaside village of only one square mile. There are no street lights, parking meters, or house numbers. They aim to keep the iconic seaside town look and they do an excellent job at it. The best way to get to Carmel-by-the-Sea is to fly into San Francisco and rent a car. Carmel-by-the-Sea is about 2 hours south of San Francisco. You can take an additional flight from San Francisco to Monterey, but the fares tend to be costly and you’d still have to find a way to Carmel-by-the-Sea. Plus, if you rent a car in San Francisco you can drive the iconic and jaw-dropping Highway One/Pacific Coast Highway all the way down. Find out more about it here. On your way down be sure to stop at the small produce stands that sell vegetables and fruits for shockingly low prices, including my favorite – 10 artichokes for $1!
Carmel-by-the Sea consists of its main downtown street, Ocean Avenue, running parallel to number streets and perpendicular to a series of streets mostly named after California Missions.
The best way to see Carmel-by-the Sea is to simply stroll around. You really can’t get lost on foot, so orient yourself at Ocean Avenue and if you see an alleyway or shop off to the side – go explore! There are so many cute stores, cafes, wine tasting rooms, and restaurants tucked in little quiet areas of the town. Loïc and Bandit immediately tackled the town like they owned the place.
Unless you spend a good week in Carmel-by-the-Sea, it’s impossible to see and do everything in the town. Here’s some of our favorite restaurants, shops, places to stay, and things to do:
In terms of where to stay, your options seem unlimited. Most of the hotels are clean and comfortable and all of them reflect the small quaint feel of Carmel-by-the-Sea. You’re not going to find any chains. Our suggestions:
La Playa: Located at Camino Real & 8th Avenue, this hotel started out as a mansion built in 1905 by an artist as a gift to his wife. It is now a beautiful hotel tucked into the Carmel-by-the-Sea neighborhood. It has 75 rooms, a beautiful pool, and has been recently newly restored. You can choose between a premium ocean room, an ocean view, garden patio room, the poolside casita, or a classic room. Treat yourself every morning to a champagne breakfast served in the hotel’s library. Check out their website here.
Pine Inn: This hotel is one of my favorites. It’s unique and elegant and situated right on Ocean Avenue among the bustle of the people and stores. Pine Inn is Carmel-by-the-Sea’s first hotel, built in 1889 and offers a range of rooms to pick from, all with colorful bedspreads and quaint decor. While you’re there don’t miss a chance to dine at Il Fornaio and stop in to Diggity Dog to get your pup a special treat.
Cyprus Inn: Described by Sunset Magazine as a “probably the most famous dog-friendly hotel in the country,” Cyprus Inn should have a special place in any animal-lover’s heart. The hotel is co-owned by Doris Day, a famous actress and animal-rights activist. Built in 1929, the hotel has a beautiful black and white exterior, classy rooms, and a fun bar (part of Terry’s Lounge) in the main lobby. Be sure to eat at Terry’s Lounge outside where you can enjoy a meal with your furry friend.
You will find no shortage of awesome places to eat, from quick sandwich shops to upscale dining. Most restaurants are dog-friendly and allow you to eat with your dog outside. Here are Loïc and Bandit’s top picks:
Portabella: This restuaurant is really fun because it’s essentially separated into three different dining areas, all with a different theme. You can sit outside (with your puppy), in their lower level dining room with a quaint wine cellar-like feel, or in their upper dining room, with a bit more light and slightly bigger tables. The food is excellent – don’t miss their Steamed Mussles Au Vin Blanc and Oven Braised Short Ribs for lunch and check out their Lamb Ossobucco and Corn and Crab Bisque for dinner. They have an extensive and classy wine list as well – both by the bottle and the glass; if you’re feelin’ real crazy, order yourself a bottle of the 2014 Napa “Opus One,’ at a mere $650 a bottle.
Forge in the Forest: Voted best outdoor dining in Monterey County since 1992, this cute little spot located at the southwest corner of 5th Avenue & Junipero was Loïc and Bandit’s favorite. If you can, snag a table outside – their patio is amazing, with a firepit, heat lamps and beautiful flowers and trees. They serve an impressive menu of brunch, lunch, and dinner and their wine list features wines from all over including an awesome selection of California wines. But, the best part? Your faithful friend gets his own menu. That’s right – while you chow down on the restaurants’s award-winning Seafood Chowder, Fido gets his choice of kibble, a hot dog, a hamburger patty, chicken strips, or a New York steak.
Your pup gets served right at the table with you in their own doggy bowls. Kelly and I got some Bloody Mary’s and watched the boys go to town.
Little Napoli: Little Napoli is a family favorite – located at the corner of Dolores Street & 7th, this restaurant offers you generous servings of awesome Italian fare in a lively setting. They have a great wine list and are known for their famous 100-year old family garlic bread recipe. This place doesn’t skimp on personality – expect Frank Sinatra playing boisterously through the speakers and don’t be surprised if you’re seated just a few inches from another party and make some new friends. The food, friendliness, and family atmosphere can’t be missed.
If you think your food options are limitless, just try to plan an itinerary of activities for your stay in Carmel-by-the Sea. There’s something for everyone. Loïc and Bandit have a few suggestions.
Shopping: There is world-class shopping in Carmel-by-the-Sea with stores and shops for any taste or expense. You will come across some chain stores like Coach, Sur La Table, and Tiffany & Co., as well as local stores like Blue Lemon, Jewels on Ocean, Boatworks, Carmel Pipe Shop, and Carmel Bay Company.
Even if they don’t pique your interest, don’t miss The Hat Shop, a 392 square foot shop tucked in a little alleyway literally filled floor to ceiling with hats, Palomas Home Furnishings, with some of the most unique and rare pieces of furniture, and Diggity Dog, an upscale botique for your best buddy, complete with clothes, treats, and toys. As you’re strolling around be sure to explore Pilgrim’s Way Bookstore and one of my favorite Carmel-by-the-Sea stops, The Secret Garden. Tucked to the side and behind Pilgrim’s Way Bookstore, The Secret Garden is a little hidden garden featuring a collection of statues, plants, and fountains. Check out all shops here.
Wine Tasting: Carmel-by-the-Sea is filled with fun tasting rooms, wine bars, and bottle shops. There’s a couple ways to do it: you can explore on your own, stopping at whatever tasting rooms stand out to you, or you can get the Wine Tasting Passport. For $100, the Passport entitles you to three or 4 1 oz. pours at 10 of the 13 participating wine tasting rooms. It’s self guided and takes you to Blair Estate Artisan Wines, Caraccioli Cellars, Dawn’s Dream, De Tierra Vineyards, Galante Vineyards, Holman Ranch, Manzoni Cellars, Scheid Vineyards, Scratch, Shale Canyon Wines, Silvestri Vineyards, Windy Oaks, and Wrath Wines.
You can purchase the Passport at the Blair Estate Tasting Room located on the 1st floor in Carmel Plaza on Ocean Avenue. Be prepared to bring CASH, they do not accept any other form of payment for the Passport.
The tasting rooms you get to visit with the Passport are certainly worth the stop, but there are some that are not on the list that are worth checking out. One of the less flashy but top notch tasting rooms is Carmel Road, located on Junipero Street, They specialize in Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, and Reislings. The atmosphere is fun (and they let you bring your pups in!) Maximilien and Bandit had a particularly fun time at Carmel Road because they met two new friends!
Beach: What you can’t miss on your trip to Carmel is a jaunt down to Carmel Beach, located at the very end of Ocean Avenue. The beach is beautiful – walk the entire stretch and get a good view of Pebble Beach Golf Course and Point Lobos. There is a free parking lot on Ocean Avenue as well as free street parking on Camino Real. The beach has restrooms and water spigots to wash off the sand.
Check out the beach’s organized volleyball games on the weekends, or treat yourself to a beach fire (check out guidelines here). The area is popular for surfers as well as joggers and dog walkers, enjoying an afternoon on the Scenic Bluff Path. The beach is very dog-friendly, and allows your furry friend to run around off leash. Loïc and Bandit lost their minds.
Check out the beach during sunset too – the view is gorgeous.
Carmel Mission: Be sure as well to take a tour of the Carmel Mission – its real name is San Carlos Borromeo de Carmelo Mission. Located at 3080 Rio Road, this mission invites you to explore their “place of worship, education, history, and art.” The mission hosts weddings and sacraments as well as a variety of other events including concerts and musical celebrations. You can, of course, attend mass there as well or just simply tour the beautiful grounds, courtyards, Basilica, Indian Cemetary, and the museum. The mission is open 7 days a week from 9:30 am to 5:00 pm; admission fees are $9.50 for adults, $7 for seniors, and $5 for children 7 and older. Children 6 and younger are free. You can take yourself on a self guided tour or join one of the adult or school tours.
17-Mile Drive: This is a really beautiful side trip from Carmel-by-the-Sea. It’s a gorgeous drive through some of the fun landmarks of the area including the famous “lone Cyprus.” The best way to get there is to get off on the Pebble Beach/Pacific Grove exit and take the 2nd exit off the traffic circle. You’ll bear to the right through the Pebble Beach gate. Admission to 17-Mile Drive is $10.25 per vehicle and they only accept cash. If you make a purchase of $35 or more at any of the Pebble Beach Resort restaurants you get that gate fee reimbursed. You, of course, get free admission if you are staying at any of the hotels on 17-Mile Drive.
Have fun skirting through the drive – check out the gorgeous houses and ocean bluffs. Be sure to get a guide when you pay your admission fee – it will walk you through the major landmarks on the drive including Spanish Bay, Poppy Hills Golf Course, the Pebble Beach lodge, the Cypress point lookout, and of course, the lone cypress.
Happy Carmel-by-the-Sea travels!!