España Parte Cuatro: Seville Cathedral

We took the train to Seville the next morning; it was a roughly 2 and a half hour train ride west through beautiful southern Spain country side. We took a cab from the train station to our hotel; we elected to stay at the Hotel Fernando III; there were numerous hotels available in Seville, but few of them had stellar ratings or really jumped out to us. Our selection of Fernando III was a bit of a gamble (some of the reviews were concerning), but it ended up being a great pick.

Situated right in the heart of Seville in the Jewish quarter, Barrio de Santa Cruz, the hotel was within walking distance of all the major Seville sights and across the street from restaurants and shops. The hotel also boasted a cute bar and a beautiful restaurant (we unfortunately, however, never got a chance to eat there).  The most unique and fun thing about the hotel was the rooftop pool, which despite being incredibly cold, was a relaxing treat. The rooftop also had numerous lounge chairs and tables with beautiful views of the city.

We grabbed a quick lunch at Gago 6, a tapas restaurant and bar located on Calle Mateos, very close to the Seville Cathedral. We picked it for its location and convenience, but it ended up being an excellent choice. Check out their croquettas and their calamari.

Before I launch into the awesomeness that is the Seville Cathedral, I’d like to discuss the rather intricate scheme we were beginning to discover traveling around Spain. My father’s host family had warned him about suspicious groups of Spanish gypsy women who congregated in tight alleyways and corners praying on poor, comisserable tourists with…wait for it….rosemary. That’s right, sprigs of rosemary. We kept our eye out but didn’t actually see this occur for a few days. When we finally did see it, we didn’t get it. It appeared a woman holding a sprig of rosemary would stop a tourist and seemed to engage them in discussion; a couple times it appeared they were reading the tourist’s palm. Inevitably, the tourist would hand over some money and they would be on their way.

We assumed that this was some sort of pick-pocket scheme. At one point, near the Seville Cathedral, I stopped and watched these nefarious women at work and noticed that not once did they attempt to take something or put their hands in the tourist’s pocket or bags. It was very confusing. Curiosity finally got the better of me and while watching a poor unsuspecting tourist duo hand over some money to a rosemary lady, I stopped them and asked them what had transpired.

Turns out, this had transpired (see #5, “The Rosemary Plant Gift Scam”). This website indicates that it can also be operated as a pick pocket scam, but from what we saw, they would demand an exorbitant amount of money for their “service” (palm reading). Here’s a video. Head’s up – they can’t read palms and there’s nothing special about rosemary.

After foiling the rosemary ladies, we started our Seville adventure by touring the Seville Cathedral. The Seville Cathedral, or Cathedral de Santa María de la Sede (Cathedral of Saint Mary of the Sea), is the largest Gothic cathedral in the world and the third largest church in the world. It’s construction took over a hundred years to complete, from 1401 to 1506 and is known for its rhythmic decorative balance and simplistic style. It’s structure is comprised mainly of the Capilla Mayor (Great Chapel). Capitular (Chapter House), Tomb of Christopher Columbus, the Crocodile, the Gerald, and the Patio de los Naranjos.

The Cathedral is open Monday from 11:00 a.m. to 3:30 p.m., Tuesday – Saturday from 11:00 a.m. to 5:00 p.m., and on Sunday from 2:30 p.m. to 6:00 p.m. Entrance is 9€ for general admission, 4€ for pensioners and students, and free for Seville residents, handicapped patrons, and the unemployed. We highly recommend getting the audio tour; it makes the entire experience much more rewarding.

When you enter the cathedral, don’t get sucked in too fast. The “suggested order of visit” that appears on your map, starts with #1 as the Museum of Sevillian Paintings and Art, and then proceeds to move you around the western perimeter of the cathedral, followed by the western center section, over to the eastern perimeter and the eastern section, and ended with the “lizard” and the orange tree courtyard (patio de los naranjos).

As you can see from the above map, after exploring the Museum of Sevillian Paintings and Art, you move to the Chapel of Saint Ann, Chapel of Saint Laurean, Chapel of the Nativity and Chapel Saint Isidore.

As you make your way around, you find yourself in front of the Door of the Assumption (see above a picture of the outside entrance). The Door of the Assumption is the main portal of the west facade of the cathedral, but the entrance is reserved only for the very special (i.e., the pope). Don’t think you’re getting in that way.

After being dissed by the Door of the Assumption, your map will take you around to the Chapel of Saint Leander, Saint Ferdinand’s Standard, and the Chapel of the Jácomes.

As you make your way into the middle of the cathedral, you’ll see Chapel of Saint Anthony, Chapel of Scalas, Chapel of Saint James the Apostle, and Chapel of Saint Francis.

At this point you will find yourself in the middle of the western side of the cathedral. On this side is the Chapels of Saint Gregory and La Estrella, the Tomb of Hernando Columbus (Christopher Columbus’s brother), the Retrochoir, the Chapel of the Incarnation, and the Small Chapel of the Conception.

The map takes a weird turn here and briefly sends you back to the front of the cathedral where you entered, showing you the Chapel of Saint Joseph, Chapel of San Hermenegild (which contains the sarcophagus of Juan de Cervantes), and Chapel of La Antigua.

That little random jaunt will spit you out in arguably the most famous section of the Seville Cathedral: Christopher Columbus’s tomb.

The journey of Christopher Columbus’s remains to the Seville Cathedral was a long one. Originally, his remains were interred in the northern Spanish town of Valladolid in 1506, and then later moved to the La Cartuja monastery in Seville at the behest of his son, Diego Columbus (the legitimate one). In 1542, Columbus’s remains were transferred to Cuba and then eventually landed in the Seville Cathedral in 1898.

About twenty years earlier, a lead box stating “Illustrious and distinguished male, don Christopher Columbus” was found in the Dominican Republic, prompting the country to claim that they had the remains of Columbus, not Spain. A group of Spanish researches got together in early 2002 to finally settle the score. Using the DNA from Columbus’s son, Diego, they were able to do a mitochondrial DNA match which Spain claims solved the mystery once and for all: Spain has the right bones. Juan Bautista Mieses, who is leading the Dominican Republic’s claim to Columbus’s bones argues that the bones could have been separated; in other words, just because Spain’s bones are Columbus’s does not necessarily mean that the Dominican Republic’s are not. Indeed, Columbus was buried at one point in both countries. Spain continues to do additional DNA tests to strengthen their findings, including testing the DNA of Hernando Columbus, Christopher Columbus’s illegitimate son, who is also buried in the Seville Cathedral.

Regardless of what you think, Christopher Columbus’s tomb is beautiful and ornate, and an amazing tribute to one of Europe’s greatest explorers:

  

Directly across from the tomb in the middle of the cathedral is the choir, a beautiful box-like structure designed for the cathedral choir to practice and perform for mass. Check out the beautiful cathedral organ at this spot too.

The choir opens directly into the High Altar or Main Chapel (Capilla Mayor). 

From the Main Chapel, you’ll head to the eastern/right side of the cathedral toward the front and check out the Chapel of Sorrows, Sacristy of the Chalices, Chapel of Saint Andrew, the Main Sacristy, Ornaments Room, the Antechapter, Chapter House, Cathedral Treasure, the Chapel of El Mariscal and the Chapel of Saints Justa and Rufina.

The eastern most side of the cathedral houses the Great Chapel of the Conception, Royal Chapel, and Chapel of Saint Peter. I had the opportunity to attend mass at the Royal Chapel the next morning.

To the left of the Chapel of Saint Peter is a long, winding staircase that looks very inviting, but keep your patience. First check out the Chapel of the Column, Chapels of the Evangelists, and the Chapel of the Maidens.

The guided map does not show every altar in the cathedral. Be sure to keep your eyes out for the small, but important ones tucked in the corners and behind the iron gates. Be sure as well to appreciate all the beautiful paintings that adorn the altars – most were painted by the 17th century Spanish Baroque artist Bartolomé Esteban Murillo.

After you’ve exhausted the tour inside the cathedral, head back towards the eastern side of the cathedral to the Chapel of Saint Peter. To your left will be a long staircase taking you up the Giralda Bell Tower.

The Giralda began construction in 1184 and was completed in 1198; it shows two different architectural styles. The bottom part of the bell tower is from the Almohad period of Seville and reflects Moorish architecture and styles. The top part of the tower is Spanish Renaissance architecture. The bell tower pre-dated the cathedral and when Christians took over Seville, they incorporated the bell tower into the cathedral and actually made it higher. It stands at about 341 feet high.

The climb to the top is amazing, but not for the faint of heart. Be prepared to climb somewhere around 35 ramps to the top. It’s one of those moments where you say to yourself “I can totally do this” and then by ramp number 17 you’re second-guessing yourself, and by ramp number 29 it’s too late to turn back. Whatever ramp you start feeling like you want to turn around, keep going. The view is worth it, I promise.

We finished off our day with a gelato treat at Amarino, a chain gelato boutique we noticed throughout Spain. Great gelato with small inside seating as well as outside tables.

Stay tuned for more Seville adventures including the Alcazar and the bull fighting ring (and Don and Donna’s newest friend!)