We spent the next day exploring some of our favorite beaches on the Big Island. Our #1 beach destination is Pololu Beach, a famous black sand beach located essentially at the end of Highway 270. The road ends at a parking lot and a large green pasture (with horses); to get to the black sand itself, you need to traverse the steep trail downward that runs along the cliffs. Pay particular attention to your footing; the trail is steep and can often be muddy. It takes about 20 minutes of delicate stepping, but it’s worth it!
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| Heading down! |
Despite the beauty and popularity of this beach, it is not really a beach in the traditional sense; the sand is very moist and dark with a lot of rocks. You won’t see anyone truly sunning or relaxing on this black sand beach. Moreover, the waves are horrendous; they’re powerful and prone to rip-currents. It’s also a favorite hang out for sharks and jelly fish.
The risks it takes to experience this remote area create the wonderful reward of a quiet beach without the often annoying socialization that comes with more easily-accesible beaches; indeed, you won’t find any food stands, snorkeling and surfing shops, lounge chairs, or even a lifeguard. It’s fun to simply experience the peacefulness it offers and enjoy the quiet.
Our next beach destination was to Makalawena Beach (“makalawena” means “where is everybody?” in Hawaiian). Located in Kekaha Kai State Park, this beach is one-of-a-kind. It’s tough to get to without a 4WD vehicle, but even if you don’t have one, it’s worth the hike. It’s a great spot for boogey boarding and sea turtle-spotting; the sand is a perfect sparkling white, and the effort it takes to trek out there results in an almost-empty beach with a ton of privacy.
There are two main trailheads:
The first is between mile markers 88 and 89 on Highway 19 (north of Kailua-Kona and the airport). If you do not have a 4WD vehicle, you can park right there on the highway and hike in the roughly 1.6 miles. If you do have a 4WD vehicle, you can drive this 1.6 mile stretch, but be very careful; the road is incredibly rough and cars are prone to flat tires. Wether you choose to hike or drive, the road will eventually deposit you at a parking area just north of the beach. It’s about quarter mile more from there (total distance is about 4 miles).
The second is a dirt road between mile markers 90 and 91 on Highway 19. At the time of our trip this road was very rough and difficult to drive on, but last I heard it has been paved. There are restrooms and tables at this trailhead but no water. If you choose to hike this area you will head north to Mahai‘ula Bay; the trail will spit you out into an area with large white sand dunes which will take you to the back area of the beach.
Our third recommended beach is Hapuna Beach in the Hapuna Beach State Recreation Area located off Highway 19 right after Puako Beach Drive. Unlike Pololu or Makalawena Beach, Hapuna is not particularly secretive or secluded, but its size and accessibility allows each beach-goer plenty of private space. The waves are manageable during calm seas and are popular for snorkeling and casual swimming.
The beach costs $5 per visitor vehicle per day; the recreation area offers picnic tables, showers, restrooms, rentable boogie boards and snorkeling gear, umbrellas, and even 4-person shelters with sleeping platforms and picnic tables which can be reserved in advance for camping. There is a great coastal trail with access from the beach that offers some real nice hiking. Be sure too to check out the Three Frogs Cafe, a snack bar with awesome fish tacos, burgers, shave ice, and some very tasty smoothies!
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| Smoothie! |
We finished off our day at Huggos, one of the Big Island’s most famous restaurants. It started in 1969 as a quick place to get steak and fish and quickly evolved into the Kona area’s premier restaurant for great seafood and oceanfront dining. They offer local musical entertainment on Friday and Saturday nights from 7:30 p.m. to 10:30 p.m. If you’re a seafood fan, don’t miss their Kailua Bay Cioppino with lobster tail, shrimp, clams, and fish. They also have a great drink and dessert menu. I, personally, chose to indulge in the “da green flash,” a famous Huggo’s concoction named after the rare green flash created by the setting sun as it touches the ocean horizon.
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| Holy hair! |
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| OMG |
