One of the more popular weekend excursions around Fairbanks is the 15-mile grueling Granite Tors loop. I use the word grueling not to discourage you, but to be honest. The hike isn’t for the weak, and is by no means an easy stroll; however, it’s worth the hard work to check out the rock climbing, beautiful views, and awesome wildlife.
The trail begins at the Granite Tors Campground day-use area at Chena Hot Springs Road milepost 39.5. The turnoff will be to your left. The hike is rated moderate/strenuous by the Alaska State Parks Department, with a 2,900 feet elevation gain over 15 miles. We did this hike in the middle of July – when the berries were really starting to emerge, particularly the blueberries. While Granite Tors is a hike you can’t miss while exploring interior Alaska, be particularly cautious of bears in the area; they are often spotted in the Granite Tors area and with berries as plentiful as they are in this area, it’s easy to accidentally stumble into these guys. Be bear aware; always carry protection, whether that’s in the form of a firearm or bear spray. Check out more facts on Alaska’s giants here.
In addition to bear protection, bug spray, sunscreen, and sturdy, waterproof, hiking boots are a must (hey there, Kelly).
We, of course, brought Bandit and Max, the two most adventurous Shiz-Tsuses this world has ever seen. Despite carrying an extra 10-12 pounds on him, Max stole the day, hiking the total 15 miles with little fanfare and complaints. They were definitely the champions of the excursion.
The Granite Tors trail leads you up to, you guessed it, some granite tors (Google kindly pointed out that a “tor” is a hill or rocky peak). The tors are an iconic Fairbanks outcropping – you can see them from the road and they’re a popular destination for rock climbers and campers. If you enjoy rock climbing, consider bringing your climbing shoes and chalk for some pretty decent bouldering. You can rent climbing shoes and chalk at the Department of Recreation, Adventure, and Wellness at the University of Alaska Fairbanks.
While the trail technically starts to the left at the Granite Tors Campground day-use area, the hike quickly crosses over the Chena Hot Springs Trail, where the real fun begins. If you are hiking with dogs, we highly recommend picking up your dogs to cross the road if you are able. There is a short bridge that parallels the road and crosses over the Chena River; this tends to scare smaller dogs as their little paws can get stuck in the grating. Also, cars zip by there very fast; keep an eye out for yourself and your pet as you cross the road.
Once you cross over Chena Hot Springs Road, you’ll head down a small steep hill and hit a flat trail that parallels the Chena River. The first juncture you’ll hit will be at the bulletin board. At this point you have a couple options depending on how challenging you want your afternoon to be. The clockwise route is considered easier – there is a more gradual ascent with more downhill on the way down. If you want more of a challenge, check out the counter-clockwise route. We, of course, because we’re so athletic crazy, took the counter-clockwise trail. Either way, at first you will hit a series of boardwalks that help to keep you up and out of the bogs (or, as I like to call them, “moose swamps.”) Your feet will thank you, at least for now.
Bandit, in true Bandit form, had to be at the front. He has proudly earned both his nicknames, “The Captain,” and “Lead Dog,” as he will literally trip you to get to the front and lead the pack. On occasion he will stop and look back, seemingly mocking your inability to be as awesome as him. Max, meanwhile, hangs out in the middle, making sure Aunt Allison is okay and occasionally running through the mud.
If you’re taking the clockwise route, you’ll be on boardwalks for about a mile before crossing Rock Creek; after crossing Rock Creek you’ll hike for a little less than a mile and head onto another boardwalk going right which will connect with the West Trail. This is your last place to say no thanks, Alaska, as the West Trail gives you an option to hike a two-mile loop. The East Trail will take you onto the 15 mile loop.
If you’re taking the counter-clockwise route, once the boardwalks end, you’ll hit a small bridge that crosses over a little running stream. This is where the real fun begins. You’ll almost immediately start heading straight up, barreling through the tree line. Periodically take a look behind you and check out the gorgeous scenery. This is also a smart place to scan the area for bears; it’s important to keep your eye out, most bears you can spot and avoid by seeing them before they see you.
You’ll spend about 3 miles heading up; keep looking back and checking out the gorgeous views and scanning the area for bears. Eventually you’ll reach the tors; you can’t miss them. The tors are huge rock outcroppings that dot the summit.
If you brought climbing shoes, this is the place to do it!
Even Don got on the tors!
Keep trotting along, eventually you will reach a very marshy area – this is where your waterproof boots will come in handy. Alaska is famous for these boggy stretches of hiking areas, complete with what are called tossocks, clumpy bumps of grass that looked like toupées and are basically designed to cause you to step on them and twist your ankles. Don’t fall for their ruse.
The boggy part will go on for awhile (a little over a mile I would guess). The bogginess, for the most part, ends at the Granite Tors shelter, a small, one room, roofed building in the middle of nowhere. The inside has a small stove and a bench. A lot of people choose to spend the night here and finish the hike the following day; the shelter is roughly half way. The hike can definitely be done in a day but if you want to go at it the Alaskan way, the shelter’s an option.
We stopped at the shelter to take a quick break and continued on. You have to deal with some more boggy marsh after the shelter but it starts to lessen off at that point. You’ll cross a small stretch where you’re hiking over rocks – keep your eye out for trail markers, usually in the form of either bright pink tape on a pole or a large pile of rocks. At this point as well you will start to notice your loop; look to the left and you’ll notice the steep incline at the start of the hike (if you chose to take the clockwise direction, look to the right).
It was at this point where we started to lose Bandit. We were about at mile 12 and Bandit was beginning to falter. We sat down for a water break and Bandit just resigned himself to the world for a quick minute.
Kelly also began to lose it.
The trail does finally end, I promise, and meets you back up with the initial junction. Humans were alive, puppies were alive, life was good.
If you want to grab a bite to eat after your hike, check out either the Chena Hot Springs Restaurant (located at the end of Chena Hot Springs Road; turn left heading out of the Granite Tors campground parking lot) or Two Rivers Lodge (located at 16 mile Chena Hot Springs Road; turn right heading out of the Granite Tors Campground parking lot).